Renault Mégane II RS: versions, weak spots and running costs before you buy

The Mégane II RS is a three- or five-door Renault Sport hot hatch built from September 2004 until 2009. This guide focuses on what matters before you buy: which version to choose, where the model is weak and what to check at a viewing. If you are more interested in whether the Mégane II RS could become a classic, read the separate piece: the Mégane II RS as a future classic.

Which Mégane II RS versions were made and how do they differ?

Every petrol Mégane II RS uses a turbocharged 2.0 16V engine (F4RT) and a six-speed manual gearbox; they differ in power, suspension and equipment. The base 225 from 2004 has 225 PS and 300 Nm at 3,000 rpm and reaches 100 km/h in 6.5 seconds (figures from Wikipedia and evo magazine).

In July 2006 the model was facelifted: the front and rear lights changed and the fog lights moved closer to the centre of the bumper. These details are the easiest way to tell a pre-facelift car from a later one.

What does the Cup chassis add?

The Cup chassis brings stiffer springs, different dampers, shorter bump stops and retuned anti-roll bars. According to Planète Renault it was optional on the Sport and Sport Luxe versions and standard on the F1 Team R26. A car on the Cup chassis is noticeably firmer day to day, which is worth checking on a test drive over a poor road.

What is the F1 Team R26?

The F1 Team R26 was shown at the Paris Motor Show in October 2006 as the most sporting Mégane RS so far. It has 230 PS at 5,500 rpm, 310 Nm at 3,000 rpm, a limited-slip differential (LSD), four-piston Brembo calipers with 312 mm discs, 18-inch wheels on 235/40 Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tyres and Recaro seats. Sirius yellow paint, exclusive to this version, was an option.

R26.R: the track version

The R26.R was built in 450 examples at the Alpine plant in Dieppe. Renault removed the rear seat, some airbags, the air conditioning and most of the sound deadening, and replaced the steel bonnet with a carbon one. Weight dropped to 1,230 kg, 123 kg less than the R26. I cover the history and market for this version in the piece on the Mégane II RS's collector potential.

Is the Mégane RS 2.0 turbo engine durable?

Yes, provided it has not been chipped and the cambelt has been changed. In its 2008 buying guide, evo described the engine as very strong and reported no common turbocharger faults on unmodified cars.

The most important item in the service history is the cambelt together with the auxiliary belt. Evo gave 72,000 miles (about 116,000 km) for the change and warned that a snapped belt means serious engine damage. Check the interval for a specific car in its service book and the job itself on an invoice. A car approaching that mileage without a documented change should be priced with the cost of the work in mind.

Other engine points evo listed:

• 98 RON fuel: cheaper fuel can cause pinking.
• Lumpy running from cold for a minute or two is normal if it clears quickly.
• The rear silencer usually needs replacing at around 40,000 miles (about 64,000 km), which is why many cars carry aftermarket exhausts.

What to watch in the brakes, tyres, suspension and gearbox?

Brakes and tyres wear faster on a Mégane RS than on an ordinary hatchback, and the suspension and clutch need attention at higher mileages. According to evo, hard pads wear the Brembo discs out after about 20,000 miles (32,000 km) of enthusiastic driving, and the front tyres can last about 10,000 miles (16,000 km) under heavy throttle.

• Suspension: according to evo, bushes start knocking over bumps at around 60,000 miles (about 97,000 km).
• Clutch: evo said it should last beyond 60,000 miles. Slipping under full throttle in a high gear means it is due.
• Gearbox: it has a short throw. A loose, imprecise shift suggests hard use, for example on track days, and a damaged linkage.
• LSD on the R26: evo described it as robust. On cars used on track, ask about their usage and service history.

Which electrical and body faults are typical?

The most common issues are the key card, the locks and minor electrical faults. Rust is rare and usually means earlier repairs. The PistonHeads buying guide from 2013 advises checking that the doors lock and unlock from the remote and points to faults in the keyless entry and ignition system.

• Pre-facelift cars had odd electrical faults, such as lights switching on or the engine starting by itself. According to evo these were fixed and did not appear after the facelift.
• Window switches can snap off, but they are cheap.
• Corrosion: PistonHeads describes the rust-proofing as excellent, so rust most often points to accident repair.
• Front end: the bonnet and bumper collect stone chips.
• R26.R: the carbon bonnet is expensive to replace and the polycarbonate windows scratch easily when washed carelessly.

What does a Mégane II RS cost to run?

The biggest single bills are the cambelt, brakes and tyres. The figures evo quoted come from a British main dealer in 2008, so they show proportions rather than today's prices:

Fuel comes on top. According to Planète Renault, the F1 Team R26 uses 8.5 l/100 km on the combined cycle, and more when driven hard. Before buying, it is worth checking whether the cambelt, a full set of brakes and tyres are due in the coming season.

Which Mégane II RS version should you choose?

The choice depends on how the car will be used. The versions differ enough that each suits a different purpose:

• 225 without the Cup chassis: the softest of the petrol versions, available as a three- or five-door.
• 225 Cup: sharper handling with the same engine. Check that the car really has the Cup chassis rather than just the wheels or stickers.
• F1 Team R26: the LSD and the full set of sporting extras. Look for the numbered plaque and equipment that matches the factory specification.
• R26.R: a collector's and track car, with the missing equipment typical of a stripped-out version. Originality of parts (bonnet, windows, seats) matters more here than mileage.
• Post-facelift (from July 2006): according to evo, free of the early electrical faults.

For the wider context of French hot hatches, see the list of 7 French future classics and the piece on the older Renault Clio RSi.

How do you check a specific car before buying?

The service history tells you most, and only then the test drive. At a viewing, go through these in order:

1. Paperwork: an invoice for the cambelt and auxiliary belt, regular oil change entries, information about any engine software changes.
2. Diagnostic scan: stored engine and electrical fault codes, including the key card system.
3. Body: paint thickness readings, especially where you see rust, and the condition of the front (stone chips).
4. Brakes and tyres: disc thickness, pad condition, even tyre wear. Uneven wear suggests an alignment problem.
5. Test drive: clutch behaviour at full throttle in a high gear, gearshift precision, suspension knocks over bumps.
6. Originality: version, chassis and equipment matching the VIN. On the R26 and R26.R, the numbered plaque.

The MB Classics archive includes a 2004 Renault Mégane RS with the 225 PS engine, and the current stock includes a 2015 Renault Mégane Trophy-R, already based on the Mégane III. You will find other French and European cars among the cars for sale at MB Classics, and more model guides on the MB Classics blog.